I’m wondering how practical it would be to drill and tap terminals to add posts to batteries like this: https://batteryhookup.com/products/2x-sunwoda-lf314-314ah-lfp-prismatic-cells-grade-a-qualified-rohs-certified-ultra-long-life-10-000-cycles
Recently acquired my first oscilloscope (Siglent SDS804x HD with license key “hack” applied) and I’ve been playing around viewing various waveforms with it. I have a simple microcrontroller circuit generating a 900Hz rectified sine wave, and it passes through a capacitor to remove DC bias.
So a while ago i got my hands on a old sewing machine sadly the foot pedal blew up on me and i also noticed that the machine made my fingers tingle (more on that in this old post here: https://sh.itjust.works/post/35395330 ).
Going to try my hand at sniffing the data driving a WS2812 chain for some future projects, and I’m wondering if anyone has tried this or knows of any existing resources for doing this. I’m fairly confident I can implement it with some RP2040 PIO since I have some pi pico boards laying around. Web searches for the topic aren’t turning up much of use, just a billion tutorials for driving the bus.
I bought the linked a/c→d/c PSU 2nd hand. I did not look at the connector (assumed it was barrel) and just focused on power attributes. Then when I got home I noticed it has 4-pins. Luckily there is a diagram on the sticker, which says:
Or would it need to have 1gpu for every 2 screens, meaning a 2gpu setup? Subsequently, would I also need to be running them on like a threadripper motherboard to avoid pcie down scaling each gpu to x8 each instead of x16?
I saw it is basically superseeded by the vc-5080 and vc-5081, but I am not finding any good comparisons and don’t know enough about this to understand the difference myself.
I don’t need much more than 100Mhz but I’d like to have serial/CAN decoding. I could probably get away with a 2 channel, but it seems like a lot of the extra features like wifi control and digital channels only come on the 4 channels like the 1204X-E, plus it has some waveform generation (though maybe that’s an addon?).
I have a HDMI breakout board for a cheap and cheerful projector in a Hush box with some automations (turn of fans, dim the lights and the like). This was great, as whenever we turned on the media player - magic!
I bought a 2nd-hand Lenovo USB-C PSU (ADLX65YLC3D) which indicates a range of voltages (20v, 15v, 9v, 5v) on the label. Tried to charge a few different bicycle lights but the charging indicators did not light up on any of them. I almost tossed it because the 2nd-hand market I bought from is definately dodgy. But then I tried to power a Rasberry Pi and it seems to work on that. So wtf? An a/c adapter either works or it doesn’t. What would cause this: works on some devices but not others? The Rasberry Pi needs 5v just as the bicycle lights. That is the default voltage for USB-c.
I bought a 2nd-hand (but new-in-box) Kenwood radio that requires USB-C @ 9 volt 1.5A. It did not come with the original charger, so I bought a separate universal USB-C charger (145 watt, full range of voltages incl. 9v 3A). The charger is not Kenwood, but it should work, no? Because we have standards, right?
First of all, I am really sorry if the topic of my question isn’t suitable for this community, but I’ve been looking to find an answer to the following question: is there any way to make my Wacom Intuos Pro S drawing tablet (PTH-451) work on my MacBook (current macOS version is macOS Tahoe 26.3). I tried to fiddle around a little, but with no result whatsoever.🥱
I am looking for advice, on a thought I had.
I wanted to combine a fairly simple phone (preferably non gogole) with a tablet for my daily use. I am ok with the tablet running Android, as I more or less am required to have it (or apple), for safe log in, in my country
Hi! I recently purchased a nice gadget from AliExpress, this should be the circuit to drive an ultrasonic piezo. Silly me, I put the batteries backwards and the U1 component on the bottom left blew up.
7 Year old monitor started to have panel issues today, no initiating event. Did the normal trouble shooting, shut every component down, disconnected, swapped cables, updated firmware, changed resolutions, etc… issue persisted.
I bought a 2nd-hand 12v 2A power supply without branding. I intend to use it on a DVD player. Coming from the street market makes it dicey because anything in that market could be from someone’s dumpster dive. To ensure it’s useable I used a DMM to measure the volts. It started at 18v but continued to gradually climb. When it passed the 20v scale on the DMM, it quit reading. So it would probably go even higher in the next scale.
I am helping a friend to repair her amplifier. A different friend took a look at it, and they were able to identify the circled part as being the one to blame. However, apparently this is a part that was made specifically for this amplifier and is no longer made, so my task is to figure out what to do. I have some electronics expertise, but mostly I was recruited because I am good at finding things.
I got a used ultrasonic cleaner with liquid damage for almost nothing and I am trying to repair it. So far I’ve confirmed that the board has a short circuit between live and neutral somewhere after the relay. Also, while reverse engineering it, I noticed something that seems weird. When the relay closes, it adds C3 in parallel to C2, both feeding the logic circuitry.
I recently got a nice office chair for Christmas with heated massage functionality and it uses a barrel plug to power it but I have to be super careful to not pull it or damage the barrel connector in any way. I wish there was a magnet conector for these things in case of a yank pull and was wondering if anyone had heard of some adapter like the one I pictured above.
I have a Roxim Z3EK bicycle headlight. This light is supposed to have a low and high beam function, but I can only get the low beam to work. So far, I have tried:
- grounding the green wire
- sending 12V+ to green
- sending 12V- to green
- bridging the green and black wires
- bridging the green and white wires
Im working on a board for controlling a few linear actuators. They will at full load draw something like 10A, and will be powered by a 24V (or so) LiPo pack.
I’m always struggling to desolder high heat circuit boards like pc motherboards because they used high heat solder. Sometimes I can get it hot enough that I can mix in some lower temp solder but it’s always a pain. I’ve also used my rework hot air at 500* plus the soldering iron at 500* and gotten it, but that’s a pain as I only have two hands. Right now I’m replacing the Nec/Tonkin caps on a ps3. Fortunately removal is simple with a chisel, but getting the pads ready for soldering is a huge pita.
Given the endless problems with attempting to properly initialise ALSA with the qualcomm chipset in my device, I’ve resorted to the idea that I’ll be designing a larger case, with a larger screen (and hopefully no shitty curvy corners) and an integrated DAC with probably a small headphone amplifier.
This is from a section on why decoupling capacitors should be attached to CMOS chips. It shows current spikes during transitions. Which then because of the inductance of traces connecting power to the chip, will cause the power rail voltage to droop.
I bought a nest gen 2 thermostat to play with a open source project that revives old nest thermostats (https://nolongerevil.com/). Since I don’t want to install it into the home, because it will be a toy. I was thinking of building a test rig using a arduino or esp32 to simulate a HVAC and indoor temperature. I’m IT guy, not a HVAC guy, I think this would be a good learning project. Any suggestions?
So my late uncle was working at Siemens and had a “little” home workshop/lab with resistors, capacitors, ICs, switches, soldering boards, wires and what there is. He learned something regarding radio (german: Nachrichtentechniker I think). Among others there was a self built radio clock (that got quite warm, plugged it out bc of safety concerns)
I’m trying to simulate a NAND gate using MOSFETs in QUCS, but I’m having trouble getting it to work. Could someone help me figure out what’s going wrong?
I’m replacing a trivial pcb in a battery pack for a small fan. It’s 6V (4xAA) with a SPST top left and a USB socket top right. But why on earth would the power line on the pcb follow that curved path? There are no other components, just the 2 ends of the battery pack and a plastic housing.
Hi folks, I’ve been trying to use LM311 to compare for a simple project, and it is depressing (to say the least) that my friends and I have not been able to get the comparator to work, I suspect that it is due to a knowledge gap, but our lab instructors keep saying, well the equipments here are for Educational Purposes and no one certifies them, and the LM311’s are cheap and unreliable so it’s not a big deal to not be able to compare voltages properly, for your project get IC’s which are reliable and more expensive I personally hate this mindset, what are your thoughts, and if the problem indeed is knowledge gap (which it certainly is according to me, as I don’t fully understand why the heck you need a pull up resistor with the thing) then do please tell me what I should be doing to catch up.
I recently acquired an old electro-cautery unit. Think it is from 1910s or 1920s. Has a big old multi tapped torodial transformer running to a couple of connectors/poles. It is by F. Geiger of Philadelphia. Wood case is labeled 110V. 60 CY. and 4V. 100A. Seriously old school cool and a little horrifying.
So far I have been using RCY connectors to connect some low power fans for a custom thingy (fursuit head, this will be relevant later (space limitations)).
They have a fairly low power draw, so around 5v 0.1A.
All the fridge repair videos I have seen demonstrate how a fridge with a damper works – in which case all the cooling happens in the freezer and a vent with configurable damper diverts some cold air to the fridge. Perhaps that is a US design.
Either the relay is broken or the thermostat. I know this because I could force the fridge to run by hotwiring 220V across the common and run pins then briefly jumping the start pin to the run pin (thus sending 220V through the start winding for a split second).
Hello everyone. totally nob here but very enthusiastic. I’m trying to repair an old SA610 pioneer amp that is shorted. I remove the power transformer and it’s ok, generating 64 volts between red and orange as 32 volts between any of these and the white wire.
I have an older electrical device which I would like to switch to charging with a USB C cable and a standard USB power supply. The device’s power supply unit supplies 14V and 400 mA, so 5.6 W. The device documentation certifies it for 12V with 2 Ah.
I recently got a bunch of old 80’s crts which I cant find any information about online.
I do have the service manual tho link
Looks like standart composite with external Horizontal and Vertical Sync to me but I’m not 100% sure and I dont want to fry anything
After playing around with some greeting card modules to modulate sound onto a LED i found out that the driver part of said greeting card modules are not audio drivers but PWM drivers (oscilloscope confirmed).
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